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13/07/2010Entertaining Edinburgh

Edinburgh Travel writer Rick Steves visits Scotland's capital city and drinks in the history, the Festival and – of course – the whisky.

Edinburgh is the cultural heart of Scotland. Once a mediaeval powerhouse stretching below its mighty castle, today it's one of Europe's most lively and festive cities.

Scotland's capital has two distinct halves: a mediaeval old town and an 18th-century new town. Weather blows in and out: bring your sweater and be prepared for rain. Locals say the bad weather is one of the disadvantages of living so close to England.

Edinburgh panorama
Princes Street Gardens, Edinburgh


This city was a wonder in the 17th and 18th centuries. It was famed for its skyscrapers — they say the first anywhere — but also for its filth. Four hundred years ago, Edinburgh was nicknamed ‘Auld Reekie’. The entire city was a black-stained mess of chimneys and ‘reeked’ of smoke.

Today Auld Reekie's streets are dirty from being dug up. A new tram system is under construction, and skeptical residents seem to regret their huge investment — up to USD 870 million. Originally slated to open this year, its projected 2012 opening could be pushed back to 2014 — and the system could cost an extra USD 160 million.

 

Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle
 
High above the construction sits the fortified birthplace of the city, Edinburgh Castle. While the castle has been both a fort and a royal residence since the 11th century, most of the buildings today are from its more recent use as a military garrison. Come here to see Scotland's crown jewels, Royal Palace, Scottish National War Memorial, St Margaret's Chapel and excellent National War Museum.




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